Steering
Shock Therapy Polaris RZR S 900 / S 1000 Racing Rack and Pinion Steering Steering
Polaris RZR S 900 / S 1000 Race Rack & Pinion
This support cannot be used with the original tie rods. You must use an aftermarket set that uses 5/8 rod ends on each end.
This racing mount is designed for RACING. Racing parts will eventually wear out and need to be rebuilt from time to time. Racing parts have no warranty.
After racing with a "stock" rack and pinion in our XP Turbo shop with 32" tires, we simply did not saw no reason to change. We didn't have any excessive wear or wobble even after 1,500 miles of running on the rack. But then as we headed into our next race, BOOM, we lost all direction. had finished. After a post-race inspection we found that the factory rack had broken in half! Center of the splined rack gear allowing one half to pull to the right and the other half to pull to the right. half of pulling on the cleft side of the rack body.
No problem, ssr 170 utv parts, we thought, utv winter accessories, just order an aftermarket replacement from anyone and it must be better, isn't it so fast? The aftermarket replacements used rack and pinion gears. They were just 0.085 inches thicker in the same place where our rack broke in half. Additionally, these brackets extend the width of the tie rod pivots by up to half an inch. It's really bad. When you change the width of these pivot joints, you add bump direction to your front end geometry. This means that as the suspension moves up and down, the "toe setting" changes a bit to toe in, toe in, or both. This gives you unpleasant feedback in the steering wheel when you hit rocks or whoops, which takes a toll on your arms and hands, of course, but theThe real damage is to your front joints, bushings, ball joints and bearings. The lifespan of these parts is seriously reduced if your car has dents. Another major drawback of Bump Steer is that the car is constantly trying to "hunt" for a direction to go. As the tires change point, the direction of your car also changes. Every time you hit a bump, scream or jump and hold the steering wheel right, the car will search for a direction by pulling there left or right on its own. This feeling is unnerving in a gaming car, but downright dangerous in any racing car. So we kept looking for another mount and found the only billet mount on the market. We bought it and loved the larger square rack gear and custom tie rods, but when we measured the width of the tie rod pivot pointsants, we found that they were 1 1/2 inches too wide! Would that create more than 3 inches of steering hump? Wow, utv brake parts, moab utv parts, I can't get this to work. With no other choice of racks to purchase, we were forced to make our own Race rack and here is a list of the items we put in our Race rack that you won't find in any other rack!
1. 7075 aluminum construction. This high quality aluminum is almost as strong as carbon steel and costs 3 times more than the more common 6000 series aluminum.
2. Hard anodized plating. This hardened surface not only prevents wear in the harshest environments, but also extends the internal life of the rack.
3. Dispersed greaselubrication of passages. Our UNIQUE lubricator supplies 6 different locations in the rack through a network of internal passages. A lubricationProper use is the key to rack life. Some of the places fed by the internal passages are the pinion, the rack gear on all four sides, and the vertical stress load points where the rack gear sees the most potential wear. With tight internal tolerances, you will only need to grease our rack with two pumps of a grease gun every 1,000 miles of racing during your routine preparation.
4. Huge 1" x 1" square rack gear. This massive gear is twice as thick as the original round gear at its weak point at the base of the tooth. The size of this gear prevents bending and breakage, but the material used is also 125% stronger than the original material. Another important thing about a square rack gear is that it prevents twisting. The original round gear tends to twist in the rack bodyler when the tie rods force it up and down. This twist jams the rack in the pinion tooth. This acts like a spdetritus log as it forces the sharp pinion tooth into the tooth base of the rack gear and creates the "broken" rack gear problems that stock racks are known for. With our square rack gear there is no twisting force to worry about and thus removes all pinion forces from the rack gear.
5. Heat pre-treated rack gear. Most racks use a soft material for the rack gear so that the teeth can be easily machined into it. After the machine process, the gear is heat treated to increase its strength. Heat treatment deforms the gear by up to 20 thousandths of an inch. In terms of machine tolerance, that's a huge amount, so they try to bend it or redre-squeeze it, but you can't straighten it to a limited extent and there are often waves in the gear from one end to the other. This means you need to increase the clearances in the body to allow the equipment to move inside the rack. We didn't like it at all, so we took a different route. We started with perfectly straight pre-cured material and cut our gears into that. This is a very expensive process because the tooling wears out very quickly and the machine time is 5 times longer but the end result is a perfectly straight gear with less than 1 thousandth of an inch of runout from end to end. the other! This tolerance allows us to tighten the rack body and keep any play (which contributes to wear) in the rack to ZERO tolerance!
6. Patent pending gear tooth design. In choosing a tooth model, we based ourselves on industry standards that were davailable initially. Through exhaustive testing and the intentional use of weaker materials to find points of failure, we found that the base of the standard tooth design was the weakest point and prone to breakage. We looked for another stronger tooth design, but couldn't find anything, so we decided to make our own! Thousands of dollars in custom tooling later, we now have a patent-pending tooth design that has TWICE the base gear thickness as a standard system does.
7. Heat Treated Sprocket Gear. Our sprocket starts as a solid piece of Chromoly 4140 material. After machining our custom tooth pattern, we heat treat the sprocket to a 60 Rockwell. It's actually harder than a carbon steel drill bit for superior strength and longevity!
8. Pinion bearings. The bearing ofhe gable is often ignored but not here. Normally the pinion bearing is pressed into the rack housing. This puts pressure on the bearing inward and can tighten the pinion and rack slide. We created a new system where the pinion bearing is not pressed in but barely slides into the rack body with only 1 mil of clearance. Next, our bearing retainer plate features a 10 mil step that preloads the bearing vertically in the housing so that it cannot move and cannot squeeze the pinion and slow down the operation of the rack. Finally, there are many different bearings you can use here, starting at $5 all the way up to $30 very high tolerance bearings. We of course only use the $30 bearings.
9. Faster steering ratio. Factory rack features a latch-lock systeme with two turns. This means that if you drive straight and place your hand on top of the wheel in the center and turn as far to the left as possible, the wheel will turn one full revolution before stopping. One full turn in a straight, centered line and one full turn to the right. This is two complete turns from one lock to the other. Our Race rack is a faster system. It spins the wheel just after 3/4 of a turn from the center. This means that our rack has a system of just over 1.5 turns. We tried using a higher gear, but found that the power from the electric power steering system was not enough to achieve a higher gear. The steering became heavy and cumbersome, we went back to a 1.5 turn system which is faster but still feels great.
10. High quality rod ends. Our Race rack uses huge rod ends5/8 for tie rod pivots on rack gear ends. We would never use inferior injected rod ends. We only use the highest quality, Teflon lined, UTV parts, FK JMX10-T rod ends. You'll be able to run a full Best in the Desert season on these rod tips without having to replace them.
11. "Taper Lock" locknuts. Our patent-pending rod end lock nuts, called "Taper Lock," are an industry first. If you've gone shopping with rod ends and lock nuts on your spoke rods, tie rods, or control arms, you know that lock nuts always come loose. Most teams weld them in place to prevent this. We didn't want any welding on our rack gear, so we developed the "Taper Lock" system which uses a tapered machinist's tool to lockUse the locknut and rod end in place. When you tighten the locknut, the male cone of the nut and the female cone of the rack gear seat together and lock like a tool collet in a mill or lathe. These locknuts also serve as direction stops for moving the rack. Positive lockout and no release is the only way to finish races!
12. 4130 Chromoly yokes. Our tie rods that allow you to attach your tie rods to our rack are huge. They are made from solid 4130 Chromoly and use high tolerance 5/8 diameter shoulder bolts to connect to the rack's 5/8 rod ends. The WELD on Clevises has two machined stages designed to be inserted into your tie rod tube and welded. The tube diameters for the clevis are 1" for .120 wall tube and for 1 1/4 .095 wall tube. We also offer a 5 threaded clevis/8 designed to screw into your aftermarket tie rods or long travel kit such as Assault, Cognito, Long Travel Industries and any other tie rod that uses a 5/8 rod end in its tie rod. Finally, we also offer a longer clevis for Lone Star tie rods. Make sure you choose your screed carefully so you get it exactly. which best fits your tie rod system.
Please note that this steering rack is a racing part and as such does NOT carry a warranty. Additionally, improper installation and/or maintenance may result in premature wear.
NOTE: CYCLES CANNOT BE INSTALLED INTO A RACING RACK, niche ATV parts review, THE CYCLE MUST BE THREADED INTO ROD ROD.
VEHICLE FITTING- Polaris RZR S 1000
- Polaris RZR S 900
